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Beaches


When talking about beaches or coves, Susak has two sides: a north east shielded side which is facing Mali Lošinj, and the south west side which is exposed to open see (it’s facing Italy). Apart from their orientation, both sides differ in the shape of the coastline, depth of the water and accessibility.

My advice for you is to explore. Due to it’s small size, you can do a circle around the whole island by foot in matter of a few hours (it’s described under Things to do. If hiking is not you style, try renting a boat or ask someone to take you for a round trip.

The following maps shows all the bigger coves.

How to use the map: If you click on a blue swimmer icon, a picture of the beach will appear along with the name of the cove. Clicking on the picture will bring you to the text about that beach.

NW - shielded side

Since the village is located on the north west side of the island, it’s the one people first discover. The water here is mostly shallow with depth up to 10 meters. Beaches on this side are easily accessible and can be reached by walking along the coast.

The two sandy shallow bays the island is famous for are both are located on this side of the island. Although the bottom is covered with sand in most of the beaches, these are the only two truly sand beaches on the whole island. Most other coves on the island are covered with pebbles or feature flat rock shelves.

Although being protected from the open sea, the north west side of the island is exposed to bura storms - a strong cold wind blowing from inland. The wind forms as cold air masses descend down the mountain of Velebit. It’s very strong and dangerous near the coast, however is looses most of it’s strength as it reaches Susak.

Waves created by bura get amplified in the shallow waters of Spiăza and Bok bays. Although swimming through these big waves and playing with them might not be such a great idea in the open see, it’s great fun when you do it in the shallow waters of these two bays!

Spiăza bay

Spiaza - shallow sandy bay at the lower villageSpiăza is the largest bay of the island. On it’s west side lays the lower village of Susak. It’s shallow waters and soft sand make it ideal for small children. Since the whole village lays on it’s shore it’s the one which is most easily accessible: you can go to the grocery store and take a swim along the way. This beach hast the most to offer when it comes to services: you can rent beach umbrella, a beach chair, a peddle boat, play volleyball or have a drink or a quick snack in one of the bars.

However if you prefer peace and quiet and would like some privacy this beach might not the right choice for you. This is the only beach on the island where nudity is not allowed.

Practicalities:

  • type of beach: sand
  • water depth: very shallow
  • swimming knowledge required : none
  • children friendly: yes
  • privacy: none
  • getting there: it’s just outside the lower village - you can’t miss it

Bôk bay

The beach in the Bok bayBôk is just around the corner from the Spiăza and both have a lot in common: shallow water, soft sand, a lot of people. Unlike around Spiăza, on Bôk you there are no houses, bars or any kind of shops. From time to time there’s someone renting beach umbrellas and chairs, but that’s about it. Usually there are over a dozen yachts anchored just outside the bay and twice as much small boats inside it. It’s a popular destination for people coming by boat for a one-day trip from Mali Lošinj.

Bôk was always considered an nudist beach.

Practicalities:

  • type of beach: sand
  • water depth: very shallow
  • swimming knowledge required : none
  • children friendly: yes - great for small kids
  • privacy: none
  • getting there:
    • from upper village follow the path past the cemetery, then head down the dusty road. When the main road starts sharply descending take the road on the right (left from the shed). Walk for another 10 minutes until you reach a crossing on which you can see bays from both sides of the island. There take the path on the left which is heading down.
    • from lower village go left and walk along the coast for 10 minutes - it’s just around the corner.

Baldrka Cove

Baldarka - a small cove facing Mali LošinjBaldarka cove is located west from the Spiăza bay. It’s a nice little cove covered with pebbles and dry posidonia see grass. Around the cove there are rock shelves which can alternatively be used for sunbathing. The whole stretch from Spiăza to this cove is in fact one big beach. Here you can find much more privacy and peace than on the previously two beaches.

Practicalities:

  • type of beach: pebbles and rock
  • water depth: slowly descending up to 4 m (13 feet)
  • swimming knowledge required : basic or none
  • children friendly: yes
  • privacy: ok
  • getting there: from lower village head left (westward) and walk along the coast for about 20 minutes

SW - exposed side

Despite the fact that the south west-side of the island is a lot less hospitable than the north-east one, it’s not true it hasn’t got it’s charms. The coast is much more dramatic and ranges from vertical cliffs dropping directly to depth up to 20 meters, through small lovely coves in which you can have absolute peace and privacy, to larger bays in which yachts find shelter during the bura storms.

Due to its south-west orientation this side is sheltered from the bura wind, but is directly hit by jugo wind. Unlike bura, during which swimming in the bays of Spiăza and Bok is quite harmless, waves created by jugo wind combined with sharp rocky shore can be a deadly trap.

Only a few bays and coves can be reached by paths running from the upper village. Others can also be reached by foot if you walking along the coast. However since the terrain is quite rough, it will take you a bit of time and a pair of good shoes (sneakers will do) to get there. The easiest way is to go by boat.

Tankers on their way to port of Rijeka pass a few miles outside the coast of Susak. Before being refilled at the oil terminal they have to empty their ballast tanks. Older tankers keep the ballast waters in the same tanks in which they also carry oil. When the ballast water is released it still contains a small amount of oil, which is then carried by the currents and waves until it reaches coast. Because of this parts of beaches are covered in black tar. When the sun melts this tar, it transforms into a sticky dense mass. Be careful not to step into it. If you do, you can clean it with gasoline.

Obis (Ambisi)

Obis (or Big Ambis as some call them) - perfect cliff divingCliffs mentioned in the previous section are located in the bay of Obis. They are as high as 15 meters (50 feet) and descend to depth up to 20 m (65 feet). This makes them save enough for jumping (it’s is still dangerous to jump - you do it at your own risk). Because of the dramatic nature of it’s bottom, this bay is often visited by divers.

Obis has in fact two beaches: big Obis at the big cliff and small Obis below the small cave. Both are very nice, although I prefer small Obis.

Practicalities:

  • type of beach: rock
  • water depth: very deep (up to 20m - 65 feet)
  • swimming knowledge required : for good swimmers only
  • children friendly: no
  • privacy: ok
  • getting there: from upper village follow the path running past the cemetery and then through vineyard

Nasuzanski

Nasuzanski bayNasuzanski in Croatian literally means “on tears”, where tears symbolize the purity of the water. The view from the cliff above this cove reveals where the inspiration which lead to such a poetic name came from. The intensity of the blue color of the see enriched by the glitter comming from the white sand at the bottom will make everyone dizzy from enchantment.

In the far end of the bay you can find a lot of junk washed off by the see. Somebody went into trouble of building a little house from all this junk. Although the shore is very sharp here, you can still find a place where you can lay down.

In the 80-es this cove was used as a film set for children’s movie called Waitapu. On the hill above the cove a whole fortress was built. However, since it was built from sand and wood today there is no trace of it.

Practicalities:

  • type of beach: rock
  • water depth: about 5 meters (16 feet)
  • swimming knowledge required : for good swimmers only
  • children friendly: no
  • privacy: ok
  • getting there: from upper village follow the path running past the cemetery and down the dusty road. Turn right into the first vineyard and then go straight until you reach a cliff. There go right down a narrow path which descends toward the beach.

Potarnak

Potarnak - to get to this cove on foot, you will have to do halve of a circle around the islandPotarnak is a small rocky cove most of which is covered by black tar. However a few meters left and right from the cove there are nice rocky shelves created when this area was used as a quarry. The thing which makes this cove interesting is it’s bottom. It’s full of interesting cracks and holes. On the left from the cove there’s even an underwater tunnel, in which there’s an air pocket in which you can dive out. A really great place for snorkeling! Be careful though because the rocks are razor sharp.

Practicalities:

  • type of beach: rock
  • water depth: about 5 meters (16 feet)
  • swimming knowledge required : for good swimmers only
  • children friendly: no
  • privacy: great
  • getting there: the cove is best reached by boat. It can be reached by foot from the Nasuzanski cove - note that the terrain is quite demanding

Zali Bok

Zali Bok - a smallest cove, which might be tricky to cross for people doing a trip around the island on footIf you decide to do a hike around the island, this cove might present a problem. This is a small and narrow cove covered with large pebbles, characterized by vertical rocky sides. It will take some climbing skills (nothing dangerous) to get on the other side.

Practicalities:

  • type of beach: rock
  • water depth: about 5 meters (16 feet)
  • swimming knowledge required : basic to good
  • children friendly: no
  • privacy: great
  • getting there: the cove is best reached by boat

Porat

Porat - nice bay facing open seaPorat (or Hawaii as some people call it) is a larger bay very popular among boat owners. Most of the time there are at least a few yachts anchored there. Bottom is covered with white sand which reflects the sunlight and makes the water blue. During a bura storm boats and yachts are safe here.

In this larger bay there are three beaches divided by sections of rock. The best is the one on the far left. It’s covered with sand and has on it’s right side two rocky shelves. The middle other two are covered by large pebbles and a great pile of dry posidonia see grass.

At evening Porat offers a great view at the sunset.

Practicalities:

  • type of beach: pebbles, rock and sand
  • water depth: shallow water slowly descending to depth of 3 meters
  • swimming knowledge required : none to basic
  • children friendly: yes
  • privacy: ok
  • getting there: the cove is best reached by boat. It can be reached by foot: first get to Baldrka Cove and the continue along the coast for another 30-45 minutes

Punta Valica

Punta Valica - a cove at farthest west part of the islandPunta Valica is a smaller cove on the far west point of the island. It’s exposed to bura, jugo and also mistral winds. Island’s west cape is just to the left of the cove. In that area the see currents mix, so during the storms the waves can be big and unpredictable.

Practicalities:

  • type of beach: pebbles
  • water depth: water descending to depth of a few meters
  • swimming knowledge required : none to basic
  • children friendly: yes
  • privacy: ok
  • getting there: the cove is best reached by boat. It can be reached by foot: first get to Baldrka Cove and the continue along the coast for another 30 minutes